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Sunday, April 29, 2001

Story last updated at 11:17 a.m. on Sunday, April 29, 2001

photo: metro

  Charred Wasteland: Jacksonville's streets have a bombed-out appearance in this photo taken shortly after the Great Fire of May 1901.
courtesy of the Leah Mary Cox Collection

City rebounded fast from The Great Fire
  For all stories and accounts of the Great Fire of 1901, click here

By David Bauerlein
Times-Union staff writer

In a matter of hours, the Great Fire of 1901 turned Jacksonville into a wasteland of rubble and ashes.

Downtown looked as if an atomic blast had struck it. Tens of thousands were homeless. Business owners had lost everything. City Hall was destroyed. Seven people died.

But amid the devastation and grief, residents already were moving forward to rebuild the city, local historians say. The fire hit on Friday. On Monday, business owners were filing for building permits. Six months later, half the homes had been rebuilt, and one-third of the offices and shops. In the two years after the fire, more new buildings were erected than the total of all the buildings that existed in Jacksonville before the blaze.

Over the next decade, Jacksonville's population boomed, doubling in size as newcomers flocked to the city for plentiful construction jobs.

"Why not just say, 'That's it, I'm moving to Savannah, I'll see you?''' said Wayne Wood, a Jacksonville doctor who recently co-wrote The Great Fire of 1901. "But they just had an inherent determination to come back. They were nuts! And yet history has proved them out."

This week, the Jacksonville Historical Society and other groups will mark the centennial of the Great Fire, which started when sparks from a chimney ignited Spanish moss drying on outside platforms at the Cleaveland Fibre Factory. The actual anniversary for the May 3, 1901, blaze will be Thursday, but activities will start Wednesday and continue through Saturday.

photo: metro

  Rises from the ashes: In 1903, just two years after the Great Fire, much of the burned-out area has been rebuilt.
courtesy of the Leah Mary Cox Collection

Highlights will include dedication of historical markers, bus tours that follow the route of the fire, an exhibit at the Cummer Museum of Art and Gardens, and the grandng of the restored Jacksonville Fire Museum near Metropolitan Park.

Time of rapid growth

The centennial celebration comes when Jacksonville, through the half-cent sales tax hike for the Better Jacksonville Plan, is embarking on a decade of construction projects that include new government buildings and roadwork through the city.

The Great Fire of 1901 unleashed a similar wave of activity, but with this difference -- the Better Jacksonville Plan is aimed at improving the city's quality of life and boosting the infrastructure for growth, whereas the survival of the city was at stake after the smoke cleared on May 3, 1901.

Jacksonville's rebound was not unique. Chicago, Baltimore and San Francisco also recovered after fires. Indeed, if not for the fire, Jacksonville would not have developed as fast as it did, said James Crooks, a retired University of North Florida professor and author of Jacksonville After the Fire, 1901-1919.

Before the blaze, Jacksonville was among the Southern cities experiencing steady but not spectacular growth.

photo: metro

  Destruction along the river: Destroyed buildings line the river in this photo taken shortly after the fire.
courtesy of the Leah Mary Cox Collection

"But by 1910, Jacksonville was bigger than all of them except Atlanta and Birmingham," Crooks said. "If the fire had not happened, the growth would have been more gradual, like Charleston or Savannah, not like Atlanta or Birmingham. What you had was a momentum that started with the rebuilding after the fire."

How Jacksonville rebounded from the fire "is the most fascinating part of the story," said Wood, who joined the late Bill Foley, a longtime reporter and columnist for the Times-Union, in writing a book about it. The book is expected to be out by the end of May.

The driving force for restoration was the Board of Trade, which later became the Chamber of Commerce. The day after the fire, the board called a mass meeting. The mayor and City Council joined the board's effort, rather than the other way around.

"They were kind of going, 'We're in charge of this,''' Wood said. "They hit the ground running. If anything had not worked well, it would have brought the whole house of cards down."

In that era, the federal government wasn't in the business of disaster relief, though it did send 12,000 tents that became a "tent city" for the homeless. The catastrophe spawned headlines in newspapers across the country, and the the Board of Trade created a communications subcommittee that sent out pleas for help through newspapers. The campaign netted several hundred thousand dollars worth of donations in cash and emergency supplies.

In 1901 dollars, the fire caused an estimated $12 million to $15 million in damage. That represented roughly half the city's taxable property. Insurance covered just $5 million, but that still represented a big dose of money, Crooks said.

Blaze brings new work

Along with capital investment, manpower was required to rebuild the city, and the fire struck when people were moving from the farms to the cities. In Jacksonville, that trend was accelerated.

photo: metro

  New buildings pop up By 1903, several large, new buildings obscure the piers.
courtesy of the Leah Mary Cox Collection

"You had jobs. You had sharecroppers and farmers who became the workers," Crooks said. "They built the skyscrapers and they built the suburbs."

Among the companies that thrived was the The Afro-American Life Insurance Co. Chartered by the state in March 1901, its building at Ocean and Union streets was destroyed in the fire. Eartha M.M. White, a clerk at the time, grabbed the insurance records and spared them from the flames, said Camilla Thompson, a longtime resident and historian.

As part of this week's centennial activities, a historical marker will be unveiled at the corner of Ocean and Union.

The centennial bandwagon also is giving a ride to advocates of downtown development. The Downtown Council of the Chamber of Commerce will sell tickets for tours of buildings, including the six-story Dyal-Upchurch Building, designed by famed architect Henry John Klutho. Klutho read newspaper stories about the fire while he was living in New York. A month later, he moved here to help with the restoration. The Dyal-Upchurch Buildingd in May 1902, rising from what was the burned-out downtown.

"I think the amazing thing is that people started rebuilding the city so quickly," said Bobbi McGinnis, who serves on the Jacksonville Historical Society and also Downtown Vision, a private group dedicated to downtown development. "If you look at pictures after the first month, you already see structures being built around Hemming Plaza."

Organizers expect the various events will attract several thousand, thought it's hard to tell how people will respond, said Wendy Raymond Hacker of the city's special events division.

"It's different than saying, 'Come on down to a concert,''' Hacker said, who said the educational events are designed to appeal to all ages. Except for the Downtown Council tours, all the activities are free.

Crooks and Wood say it's a rare chance to give Jacksonville residents -- who mirror Florida's come-and-go population trends -- a historical perspective on the city.

"This was a disaster of epic proportions faced by real people," Wood said. "In the past it was always a footnote. It was always, "Oh yeah, there was a fire.'"

Crooks said, "They're not aware of the fire, and yet at the same time, it had a major impact on the shape of the city. That's kind of a puzzle."


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