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Sunday, April 29, 2001

Story last updated at 11:17 a.m. on Sunday, April 29, 2001

photo: metro

  The Cleaveland Fibre Factory is where the Great Fire started.
-- Jacksonville Historical Society

THE GREAT FIRE
A new book to be published next month-- The Great Fire of 1901, co-authored by Wayne Wood and late Times-Union columnist Bill Foley-- recounts the disaster in gripping detail with words and photos. What follows is Foley's essay on the tragedy:

  For all stories and accounts of the Great Fire of 1901, click here


The chimney caught fire at lunch. In 2,000 homes this day, dinner never came.

Before even the turn of appetite, the greatest fire ever to savage a city in the South destroyed the meaningful part of Jacksonville.

An afternoon of terror reduced 146 blocks of our town to a seething ruin of living ash and dead animals, devastated lives and ruined dreams.

Fifteen thousand people fled for their lives in a firestorm of horror, of flame and smoke, wild rumor and stark confusion.

Dusk found nearly 10,000 huddled destitute and homeless by the fire's fringe, a sunken-eyed mass under "a weird light that never before shone on land or sea."

"The softest cheek ever nourished by Caucasian blood seems yellow and drawn under the firelight," wrote newspaperman Benjamin Harrison.

photo: metro

  Residents flee The Great Fire on May 3, 1901, taking whatever belongings they could. The blaze left 8,677 homeless and seven dead.
-- Florida State Archives

"The blackest African flushes into saffron and the eyes emit a gleam that seems borrowed from the cat's eye."

Harrison's Acres of Ashes provided a contemporary narrative of the blaze. It was a slim volume published by James A. Holloman, night editor of The Florida Times-Union and Citizen.

Above the homeless mass, amid the glow of irretrievable ruin, floated an anguished hum, a murmur never articulate.

"Sometimes it has the hard tone of remonstrance with heaven for the cruelty of the visitation," Harrison wrote.

"Sometimes many join in the crooning of a camp-meeting hymn. Often there is the shriek of a mother separated from a child in the terror of the time."

"The agony must find vent."

Between noon and twilight on Friday, May 3, 1901, fire forged Jacksonville for 100 years to come.

The chimney had caught fire before. E.E. Cleaveland had seen it, barely 20 feet away from his Cleaveland Fibre Factory, located in the block bounded by Beaver, Union and Davis Streets, then the extreme northwestward limit of the city.

Burning chimneys, sparks and flying soot were common sights among the pine shanties of LaVilla, the hardscrabble swatch west of Jacksonville.

Thus, little weight was given the first spark of the Great Fire of 1901.

"This was a frequent experience," said Cleaveland the day after a fiery atom landed by chance on Spanish moss at his plant and incinerated an entire city.

"Once or twice before the fiber on the drying platform has been set afire with falling soot from the chimney and the cottage," the plant proprietor told the press.

Material from the vats filled the large platform fronting on Davis Street and taking up a half of the block. The pine shanties behind the building and throughout La Villa posed a combustible threat, not the least to themselves. Many had what writer Benjamin Harrison called "chimneys of wonderful design, but nearly all defective in much."

Harrison noted as well it was common for sparks to fly from the chimneys of LaVilla.

The factory, indeed, employed a watchman to look out for the casual fires and other untoward incidents. A hose connected to a water tower was nearby.

On this drought-dry spring noon there was little wind, so the watchman took his ease with the other workman at lunch hour. They lounged on theplatform amid piles of fresh-ginned moss.

The Great Fire of 1901

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  • The platform was large, nearly 200 feet square and built 12 feet above the ground. Two small dwellings to the south and west of the sprawling floor were within easy reach for a vagrant spark.

    A shaken Cleaveland spoke the next day to a reporter from the morning newspaper, The Florida Times-Union and Citizen, from a nearby furniture store Cleaveland also owned. The store was undamaged by the blaze, while all in view to the east and south lay in imponderable, smoldering ruin.

    "The men knocked off for dinner and were lying around in the shade, either eating their dinner or resting," he said. The routine this dry, hot Friday was no different than that of hundreds of lazy noons before; none suspected it would be different than hundreds of days to come.

    A workman whose name is lost to history saw the smoke coming from moss ginned that morning and the afternoon before.

    Two men took buckets of water and went to extinguish the fire. Had it been a two-bucket job, the course of Jacksonville's history would have continued on its path. But for a third bucket that worked, how different might have grown our town over these 100 years.

    "This having happened before, no importance was attached to it, more than ordinarily," Cleaveland said.

    Suddenly there was a scurry of breeze, and with the sudden wind smoke rose from the platform. A workman sloshed a bucket of water over the smoke and moss and "put the fire out," Harrison wrote.

    But the gods of destruction were not to be denied.

    "While so doing [the workman] noticed that little blazes glowed in the mass of fiber and he called for help ... The other workmen went to his assistance and bucket after bucket of water was piled on -- to no purpose. The first breath of the coming wind swept over the yard, the fragments caught fire and the fire ran with the speed of powder flashes."

    In the beginning, the Great Jacksonville Fire ignited only on the platform. But the imps of hell were loosed.

    "Every effort that could be made to put out the fire was made, but the strong wind and the dryness of everything was too much for the men at the factory," Cleaveland said. "The fat-pine buildings and the flying burning shingles made it impossible to control the fire."

    As the now-alarmed workers struggled with the living flames, blazing fragments followed debris into the main building of the Cleaveland Fibre Factory.

    "Here they found fresh material on the floor and in the racks -- the great room was immediately a mass of flames and the alarm of the fire was sent in," Harrison wrote.

    It was 12:35 p.m.

    photo: metro

      Drought, wind and buildings constructed of flammable pine all conspired to unleash The Great Fire. Here, burning Spanish moss spreads the flames across the city.
    --Jacksonville Historical Society

    Even as firemen arrived, Cleaveland knew all was lost.

    "The engines came on the run. The firemen were at work before the horses stopped. Streams were poured on the flames."

    The drought had been too prolonged. The building was of pitch pine. Its roof was made of shingle, combustible as tinder. The wind had inexplicably risen, as if it were for evil purpose.

    "Water evaporated or seemed but fuel to the flames," Harrison wrote.

    Fitful gusts blew over the fiber factory and surged throughout the city. Their dangerous breath carried the first scent of smoke and doom over a city barely awakening to the danger.

    And then a new horror was added to the calamity for which no one was prepared. The roof of the building collapsed with a roar, creating an explosion that hurtled masses of burning moss high into the air. Thousands of fiery brands burst from the factory and took wing. The malevolent wind lofted the flaming sprites of destruction and sent them flying like devilish burning doves. The flaming clumps of moss swirled relentlessly to the innocent east.

    There the flying fire settled on shingle roofs of dwellings yards away. In neighboring backyards, once-harmless debris became piles of fire. Intowindows the airborne missiles flew. Curtains, moments before dallying in the gentle breeze, became sheets of flame.

    Fire Chief Thomas Haney, among the first to arrive, sounded a general alarm. From all directions the city firefighters came. Soon all were on the scene.

    Haney himself stood foremost against the heat and flame. Twice that awful day he would be felled in combat. Now he directed streams of water on the factory. Smoke and flames arose on three sides around his force.

    The chief divided his men and machines. One detachment went east, ahead of the fire. Another was sent to the west, to guard buildings and dwellings to the rear. Harrison wrote the chief himself "went to the front at the post of danger and worked there with despair already in his heart."

    The parched pine-shanty suburb of Hansontown already was a furnace. Roofs caved in. Bedding and every variety of household goods rose bodily from their dwellings and added their burning airborne fragments to the conflagration.

    "The firemen stood under a roof of flames, and the [fire] swept over them and beyond the reach of their engines," Harrison wrote.

    Exhausted, the chief turned from his work, and stared in disbelief at the horrific scene.

    The entire city was going up in flames behind him.

    It was 1 p.m., and the Great Jacksonville Fire had the whole afternoon ahead of it.


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